Don't tell Los Angeles, but I've had a secret crush on Seattle ever since I moved to the West Coast 15 years ago. Don't get me wrong—I love LA. The endless sunshine, the mountains, beaches, deserts, culture, food, and entertainment—it’s all part of why I call it home. But at my core, I’m a Midwesterner, and sometimes, I really miss weather.

Even so, it took me 35 years to finally visit the Pacific Northwest. But last summer, I made it happen—celebrating another mountain birthday with a trip to Mount Rainier National Park. And when I left, all I wanted was more.

We spent 3 beautiful days in and around Mount Rainier National Park and 24 hours in Seattle. So if you have a short timeline to get your PNW fix like me, I have the perfect itinerary for you!

But before jumping into my personal experience, here’s what you need to know about Seattle and Mount Rainier National Park.

Towering at 14,411 feet, Mount Rainier is one of the most iconic peaks in the Pacific Northwest, offering breathtaking views, diverse ecosystems, and unforgettable outdoor adventures. If you're planning a summer visit, and you have limited time, you’ll definitely want to make the most of your trip.

Best Time to Visit

Summer is the prime season for visiting Mount Rainier National Park, with the best conditions typically from late June through September. During this time, you’ll experience mild weather, clear skies, and snow-free trails. July and August are particularly popular, as the wildflowers in Paradise and Sunrise bloom in vibrant colors, creating postcard-worthy landscapes. If you prefer fewer crowds, aim for early July or late September when the park is quieter.

Where to Stay

There are several options for accommodations, depending on your preferences:

Inside the Park:
- Paradise Inn: A historic lodge with rustic charm and stunning views, located in the Paradise area.
- National Park Inn: Situated in Longmire, this cozy inn offers a peaceful retreat with easy access to trails.
Campgrounds:
- Cougar Rock Campground (near Paradise) and Ohanapecosh Campground (southeast side) are great options, though they fill up quickly—reserve early.
Outside the Park:
- Towns like Ashford, Packwood, and Enumclaw have lodges, Airbnbs (we stayed in one of the Little Owl Cabin in Packwood), and cabins for those who prefer more amenities while staying close to the park.

What to Expect & Must-See Areas

Paradise: Known for its spectacular wildflower meadows and stunning views of Mount Rainier, this area is home to popular trails like Skyline Trail, Myrtle Falls, and Nisqually Vista.
Sunrise: The highest point in the park accessible by vehicle, Sunrise offers panoramic vistas, alpine meadows, and excellent hiking options like the Fremont Lookout and Burroughs Mountain trails.
Grove of the Patriarchs: A short but rewarding trail leading through an ancient forest with massive, centuries-old trees (this area was closed when we visited in 2023)
Reflection Lakes: A serene spot where you can capture breathtaking mirror-like reflections of Mount Rainier in the water.
Waterfalls: Don’t miss Christine Falls, Narada Falls, and Comet Falls for picturesque cascades.

Hiking Tips & Safety

Start early: Parking lots fill up quickly, especially in Paradise and Sunrise, so arriving before 8 AM helps secure a spot.
Check trail conditions: Snow can linger on higher-elevation trails well into July, so check the National Park Service website for updates.
Pack layers: Even in summer, temperatures can vary widely, and sudden weather changes are common.
Bring plenty of water and snacks: Many trails have significant elevation gain, so stay hydrated and fueled.
Wildlife awareness: Keep a safe distance from wildlife, and store food properly to avoid attracting animals.

What to Pack

Clothing: Moisture-wicking base layers, a lightweight jacket, a rain shell, and comfortable hiking pants or shorts.
Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots or trail shoes with good traction.
Essentials: Sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat, and insect repellent.
Navigation: A map, compass, or GPS device (download maps in advance due to limited cell service).
Safety Gear: A first-aid kit, whistle, and multi-tool.
Food & Water: High-energy snacks, a reusable water bottle or hydration system, and a water filter for longer hikes.
Extras: Trekking poles, binoculars for wildlife viewing, and a camera to capture the stunning scenery.

Additional Tips

Entrance fees: A private vehicle pass is $30 (valid for seven days), but an annual America the Beautiful pass ($80) is a great investment if you plan to visit multiple national parks.
Cell service is limited: Download maps and trail guides ahead of time. I recommend an app like AllTrails+. You can use the link or my promo code HIKEOLOGY30 for 30% AllTrails+ (that’s just $2.10/mo) and get access to awesome features like offline maps, wrong turn alerts, extra map layers and more!
Respect the park: Follow Leave No Trace principles to help preserve the park's beauty for future visitors.

Day One - Seattle, WA > Packwood, WA

Upon arriving at Sea-Tac International Airport, we met up with our Turo host who handed off our rental car to us right at the airport. Having a car was essential to our trip while we visited the park, and I’ve found renting through Turo in some of these more tourist-heavy destinations during peak season is the way to go. After settling into the vehicle we headed on our way to Packwood.

Covering approximately 100 miles, the route takes about two and a half hours, depending on traffic and road conditions. As you leave the Seattle metropolitan area via I-5 South, the urban landscape gradually fades, giving way to thick forests and rolling foothills. Turning east onto WA-7 or WA-161, the drive becomes increasingly scenic, with winding roads that pass through charming small towns like Eatonville and Morton, where you’ll find local diners, coffee shops, and glimpses of Mount Rainier on clear days.

We made a few pit stops along the way. First, we stopped by a roadside Cherry stand to pick up some Rainier Cherries. This was the perfect snack for the rest of our drive and a must-do while you’re in the area. Our second stop was in Elbe for lunch at a local diner (inside a train car!), more cherries and some huckleberry ice cream. Do not sleep on the huckleberry ice cream. It’s divine.

As you approach Packwood, the landscape shifts to towering fir trees and more rugged terrain, a sure sign that you’re getting closer to the park. The final stretch along US-12 is particularly stunning, with the Cowlitz River meandering beside the road and the jagged peaks of the Cascades coming into view.

Packwood is the quiet, yet charming, gateway to the national park with a rustic, laid-back vibe, making it the perfect place to unwind after a long day of hiking or exploring. Despite its small size, Packwood offers a handful of welcoming spots to grab a bite, a drink, or some last-minute supplies. The town’s general store is a must-visit, stocked with everything from camping essentials to quirky souvenirs, making it an essential stop before heading into the wilderness.

If you need a caffeine fix, The Mountain Goat coffee shop serves up excellent brews with a cozy, friendly atmosphere, perfect for fueling up before a sunrise hike. For those craving something heartier, the town’s pizza shop, Cruiser’s Pizza, is a must. As a midwestern gal who grew up on Chicago-style pizza, I don’t say this lightly… it might just be one of the best pizzas I’ve ever had. And of course, no visit to Packwood is complete without stopping by Packwood Brewery, where you can sip a cold craft beer while soaking in the mountain views and maybe even enjoy some live music.

Our cabin was nestled in a neighborhood just 5 minutes from town and it was the perfect space for just the two of us. We rented the Pika Cabin from Little Owl Cabins. It was super cozy and had every amenity we could have hoped for. The only downside was that the ladder to reach the loft and bed was a bit steeper than we anticipated, which wasn’t always the easiest to climb after a long day in the park, but we managed!

After grabbing a bite to eat in town and settling into our cabin we spent the rest of the evening relaxing and preparing for our first full day in the park.

Day Two: Packwood, WA > Paradise, WA (Main Entrance of the Park)

Our first day in the park we decided to focus on Paradise. Perched at 5,400 feet on the mountain’s southern slopes, this breathtaking alpine wonderland is famous for its lush wildflower meadows, sweeping vistas, and up-close views of Rainier’s towering peak and glaciers. In the summer, trails like the Skyline Trail and Nisqually Vista take you through beautiful fields of lupine, paintbrush, and avalanche lilies, with panoramic views that stretch for miles and miles.

The historic Paradise Inn, built in 1916, offers a cozy retreat, we were feeling a bit of hotel FOMO after taking a peek inside, while the Jackson Visitor Center provides helpful park information, exhibits, and a café for a pre or post-hike pick-me-up.

Before we hit Paradise though, we had to check out a few of the waterfalls on our way. First up was Christine Falls. This waterfall is one of Mount Rainier National Park’s most picturesque waterfalls, cascading gracefully beneath a scenic stone bridge. It feels like something out of a fairy tale. The viewpoint is easily accessible from the roadside, making this 69-foot waterfall is a perfect quick stop.

Our next stop on our way up the road to Paradise was Narada Falls. This waterfall is a stunning two-tiered fall that drops 168 feet, creating a mesmerizing misty spray that often forms rainbows on sunny days. We were socked in on this particular day, so no rainbows for us. But the waterfall is stunning nonetheless. The parking lot is fairly large and located just off the road, where a short but steep trail leads to a lovely viewpoint where you can feel the power of the rushing water up close. This was a hard vista to tear ourselves away from.

Finally, we made our way up to Paradise and I’ll admit, as we got closer and closer my stomach began to sink. We were a bit behind schedule, arriving around 9:30am and the parking lots were packed. Parking in Paradise can be challenging, especially during peak summer months and weekends. To secure a spot, aim to arrive early, preferably before 8 AM, since the lot fills up quickly. If you arrive later in the day, even 9:30am like us, be prepared to circle for a while or park farther down the road and walk. After circling for a bit, we ended up finding a spot further down the road and decided to walk the short distance back up to the visitor center.

My disappointment grew as I realized we were still completely enveloped in clouds, with no sign of Rainier. We followed the short trail to Myrtle Falls, where the mountain should have loomed majestically behind the cascading water, but instead, all we saw was a wall of gray. Regardless, Myrtle Falls is beautiful, and definitely worth the trip. But I was bummed we weren’t getting that awe-inspiring photo-op I was hoping for.

After we visited the falls, we headed back to the visitor center in hopes that grabbing and early lunch would buy us some time and allow the clouds to burn off. It did no such thing. So, feeling a bit dejected, we contemplated our next move. I knew I wanted to keep exploring whether the mountain was visible or not, so we decided to continue our hike past Myrtle Falls with no real game plan. So, we set off on the Golden Gate Trail making our way “up” as far as we knew. The trail is extremely scenic, even in dense cloud cover, in the distance we could see more cascading waterfalls spilling down from Edith Creek and marmots scurrying about as we ascended to a ridge with panoramic views of the surrounding valleys below.

Myrtle Falls (The peak of Rainier should sit just between the trees above the ridge)

As we climbed the switchbacks toward the ridge, a sudden break in the clouds revealed the mountain, and for a fleeting moment, I was struck by its sheer size and looming presence. Before I could fully take it in, the gray mist swallowed it back up, but that brief glimpse gave us the motivation to keep pushing upward. It honestly made us feel so giddy and excited. At the ridge, we joined up with the Skyline Trail and met a friendly Volunteer Ranger, who, after a quick chat about the weather, encouraged us to keep going up, saying she had a good feeling the mountain would show itself if we kept climbing higher. Taking her advice, we pressed on, with the mountain teasing us every so often by peeking through the clouds just enough to keep us hooked.

As we rounded the final bend, I could feel the clouds actually start to swirl around me, and suddenly, a burst of sunshine broke through. To our right, a massive rock wall shielded our view, leaving us wondering: was the mountain actually there? My excitement grew so much that I suddenly just began running, afraid I was about to miss my only chance for a full view. As we reached the ridge and stepped out onto the plateau, the clouds suddenly parted just enough to reveal the towering peak in all its glory, with it’s massive white glaciers beaming in the sunshine. We stood in complete awe, overwhelmed by the massive, beautiful view before us.

It was a moment of pure joy, not only for me and Mark, but for all of us on the trail. We shared photos, high fives and swapped stories of our hikes, each of us knowing that every step had been worth it for this breathtaking view, while quietly feeling sad for those still stuck down in the valley, unable to see a thing.

That wasn’t the end, though. After a refreshing break, we chose to continue along the Skyline Trail loop back down to the visitor center. I didn’t think the trail could get any more stunning, but the descent proved me wrong. The shifting clouds added a dramatic touch to the landscape, and as we made our way down, the mountain gradually slipped out of view once more. We ended up hiking a lot more than anticipated, but it was all worth it in the end.

Being that our day ended up much longer than anticipated, once we got back to the parking lot, we grabbed a couple more snacks for the road and then headed back to Packwood to clean up and grab some dinner.

Dinner tonight was at Packwood Brewing Co. where we shared a few bites and beers, listened to some live music in the yard and grabbed and ice cream cone from the truck parked outside. We were even visited by a few elk!

That night we turned in early because I had a full day of activities planned for us the following day and we had an early start ahead of us.

Day Three: Packwood > Sunrise

Today, we set out to explore the east side of the park, specifically the Sunrise area. But first, we made a quick stop at The Mountain Goat, our new favorite spot in town, for more coffee and granola bars, then grabbed a few extra provisions from the local market.

With supplies in hand, we hit the road on Route 123 toward Sunrise. But before reaching our destination, there was one stop I was especially excited for: Little Tipsoo Lake. The skies were crystal clear, and the mountain was out, making it the perfect day for this detour.

Little Tipsoo Lake was a quick stop, but it ended up being one of my favorite moments of the day. Just off Chinook Pass, it’s a bit smaller and quieter than the more popular Tipsoo Lake just below, but the view is just as incredible, if not better. The water here is generally calm, reflecting Mount Rainier almost perfectly, and wildflowers lined the edges of the trail. It was a warm, sunny day with just enough of a breeze to keep things comfortable. We took a trail to a rock outcropping near the back of the lake and ate our bars, just taking it all in, before heading back to the car. This was definitely worth the stop.

After our break at Little Tipsoo it still felt a bit early to head into the park. The granola bars were tasty, but we had worked up an appetite. In some of my research ahead of our trip, I had looked into an area called Crystal Mountain Resort. It’s a small ski resort area not far from the Sunrise park entrance. So we headed that direction. Initially, we had our minds set on the gondola ride that offered views of the mountain, but at $45 bucks a ride, we decided against it—we’d have plenty of free views from our hike later on. Instead, we popped over to Snorting Elk Cellar Bar & Deli for a bite to eat on their lovely patio. This stop was such a nice surprise. The staff was so sweet and the food was just what we were looking for.

Finally, it was time to head into the park. So we gathered our things and made our way to the North East entrance. When we got there, we were greeted with a queue of stopped traffic. This was to be expected, but with bellies full, and a lot of daylight ahead of us, we decided to be patient and accept our fate. After about 45 minutes of waiting, we finally made it past the park gates and were on our way up to Sunrise.

As you approach Sunrise, the tree line begins to thin, revealing sweeping subalpine meadows dotted with wildflowers in summer. Around Sunrise Point, a famous switchback viewpoint, you'll get a 360-degree panorama of the Cascades, including glimpses of Mount Adams, Mount Baker, and Glacier Peak on a clear day.

Sunrise is the highest point accessible by vehicle in Mount Rainier National Park. The views of Emmons Glacier (the largest glacier in the contiguous U.S.) and the dramatic northeast face of Mount Rainier are seriously breathtaking. Once you arrive, you’ll find parking, a visitor center (seasonally open), and several trailheads, including the Sunrise Rim Trail, Burroughs Mountain Trail, and Mount Fremont Lookout Trail. Our destination for the day was the Mount Fremont Lookout Trail.

The hike begins from the Sunrise Visitor Center, where you’ll immediately be greeted by spectacular views of Mount Rainier. This first section follows the Sourdough Ridge Trail, which is a well-maintained trail that climbs gently along an exposed ridgeline. There is not a lot of shade on this trail, so you’ll definitely want sun protection. Slather on the SPF and make sure you have a good sun shirt for this one!

The first mile ascends gradually to Sourdough Ridge, with sweeping views of Rainier behind you. This is where we ran into some more wildlife like little Pikas and even a few Mountain Goats, so keep your eyes peeled! The trail then descends slightly as it reaches Frozen Lake, a small alpine lake that serves as the water source for the Sunrise area (hence the "No Swimming" signs). At Frozen Lake, you’ll then take the Mount Fremont Trail (on the right) off toward the lookout.

From here you’ll start to do a bit more climbing, but it will 100% be worth it. the terrain becomes rockier and more exposed, with fewer trees. The narrow trail winds along a dramatic ridgeline, offering breathtaking views of the Huckleberry Basin and distant peaks. Be prepared, this stretch can be super windy and chilly, even in summer. We were here mid August, and this section of the trail had me reaching for my jacket!

The final approach is a gentle incline leading to the Mount Fremont Fire Lookout, a historic wooden structure perched at the end of a rock outcropping at 7,181 feet. I highly recommend arriving in tie for sunrise or sunset. The views from this spot are absolutely breathtaking.

After we took in the views and had a snack, it was time to head back the way we came. We wanted to get back to town before to grab one last dinner before it was completely dark.

Packwood, WA > Seattle, WA

I could have easily spent a full week exploring Mount Rainier National Park—there were so many more adventures on my ideal itinerary that we simply didn’t have time for. But, unfortunately, our trip had come to an end, and it was time to head back to Seattle.

Luckily, we had set aside a full day to explore the city—something I rarely do on adventure-focused trips. With a lineup of foodie-friendly experiences ahead, it was a welcome change after days of fueling up on pizza, pretzels, and beer.

We were booked to stay 1 night at the Palihotel Seattle. We’ve always been a fan of the Palisociety group, but never had the chance to stay at one of their properties, so this was a great first experience. The location is phenomenal. Just steps from Pike Place Market, and close to so many great restaurants and shops, the hotel blends vintage charm with modern comforts, offering a cozy yet eclectic atmosphere that feels both sophisticated and welcoming.

The weather was absolutely beautiful, so during the afternoon, we did all the necessary touristy things. We went to the fish market, popped over to the Space Needle, strolled the Chihuly Garden and also did a bit of sight seeing around Volunteer Park and the Conservatory.

Finally, because it was my birthday, we decided to go all out and book a table at Sushi Kashiba. The restaurant is tucked into Pike Place Market, and easily one of the best sushi experiences I’ve had. The fish, flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu Market and sourced from the Pacific Northwest, was unbelievably fresh. We had a dish called the “Salmon Trio” that I will never forget. It literally melted in my mouth. The atmosphere was refined but warm and welcoming, making the whole experience feel special without being too formal. If you’re a sushi lover, this place is worth every bite!

On our final morning, we grabbed a couple biscuits from Biscuit Bitch and sipped some coffee on a bench overlooking the sound. It was the perfect way to end another wonderful birthday trip.