3-Days Backpacking the Trans Catalina Trail
The Trans-Catalina Trail is a 38.5-mile trek across California’s scenic Catalina Island. Known for its rugged terrain, sweeping ocean views, and encounters with wildlife like bison (yes, I said bison), the trail takes hikers through diverse landscapes, from coastal cliffs to inland valleys. Perfect for a multi-day adventure, it offers designated campsites, challenging climbs, and unforgettable island vistas.
I chose to embark on the Trans Catalina Trail as my first solo backpacking trip and my mood going into this adventure was a mix of excitement and apprehension. I’m a confident hiker, my husband might say too confident, and I prepared as much as I could, but unexpectedly adopting a puppy in February threw a wrench in my training program, and the week leading up to my trip was full of office emergencies that required late nights seated at my computer instead of training and preparing for my trek.
But I was determined to see this trip through. And while this journey may have posed its challenges, the freedom and sense of accomplishment gained from this solo adventure was truly unparalleled.
The Trail
Difficulty
Hard
Permits Required?
Yes, campground reservations are required, reservable online in advance
Distance
38.5 miles, point to point (depending on your itinerary)
Elevation Gain
6,722 ft.
Planning
To hike the Trans-Catalina Trail (TCT), you’ll need two permits: a hiking permit and camping reservations. The hiking permit is free and can be obtained online through the Catalina Island Conservancy website. Simply fill out a form with your trip details, and you’ll receive the permit via email to print or save digitally.
Camping reservations are required for overnight stays and can be booked through Reserve America or Catalina Island Campsites. Popular campsites along the trail include Blackjack, Little Harbor, Two Harbors, and Parsons Landing. Note that Parsons Landing requires an additional fee for firewood and water, and reservations should be made well in advance due to high demand.
To access the island, book a ferry from Long Beach, San Pedro, Dana Point, or Newport Beach via Catalina Express or Catalina Flyer.
Pro Tips:
Parsons Landing requires an additional locker fee for firewood and water ($20).
Book well in advance, especially during peak seasons (spring and fall). Campground reservations go live on January 1st at 12:01 AM every year, for the entire calendar year.
Weather
Weather on Catalina can vary significantly depending on the time of year, so planning accordingly is crucial. Here's a breakdown of what to expect and how to prepare:
General Weather Overview
Spring (March to May): Ideal hiking conditions with daytime temperatures in the mid-60s to low-70s °F. Nights can still be chilly, dipping into the 40s-50s °F. Wildflowers may be in bloom, adding to the trail's beauty.
Summer (June to August): Hot and dry, with daytime temperatures often reaching the 80s or 90s °F. Carry plenty of water and plan to hike during the cooler early morning or late afternoon hours.
Fall (September to November): Warm days and cooler nights, similar to spring, but with less chance of rain. Ideal for hiking.
Winter (December to February): Mild temperatures during the day (50s-60s °F) but colder at night, sometimes dropping to the 30s °F. Rain is more likely, and trails can become muddy in some areas.
Catalina Island Weather Tips
Layering is Key
Bring lightweight, moisture-wicking layers for warm days.
Include a fleece or insulated jacket for chilly nights.
A lightweight rain jacket or poncho is essential year-round, as rain showers are unpredictable, especially in winter.
Sun Protection
The trail offers little shade, so bring a wide-brimmed hat, sunscreen, and sunglasses to protect against the intense sun.
Wind Awareness
Coastal winds are common, especially in exposed areas and near campsites like Two Harbors. A windbreaker can help keep you comfortable.
Water Planning
Water sources are limited, so carry enough to last between refills. In hot weather, aim for at least 3 liters per day.
Best Season to Hike
The best times to hike the TCT are spring and fall, offering moderate temperatures and less risk of heat exhaustion or rain. Summer hikes require extra water and early starts to avoid the midday heat, while winter hikers should be prepared for rain and cold nights.
*I hiked during the first week of April, and after a very wet early spring, I had the most beautiful, dry, sunshine-filled weather. But even though it was in the mid 60ºs during the day, the sun exposure and uphill climbs honestly made it feel like 80ºF at some points, so keep that in mind as you plan and pack!
What to Pack
Packing for a multi day trip on the Trans-Catalina Trail requires some planning to ensure you're prepared for the rugged terrain, variable weather, and limited access to supplies. Below is a comprehensive packing list to help you hit the trail confidently.
*Affiliate links included in the below list. I may earn a commission should you choose to purchase. Thanks for the support!
Essentials
Backpack (40–60L): Comfortable and properly fitted. I went with the 60L Gregory Deva pack.
Trail Map or GPS Device: Ensure you have navigation tools, like AllTrails, as some sections can be remote. Always download your maps ahead of time!
Permits: If necessary, print out your camping permits for the designated sites along the trail.
Clothing
Base Layers: Moisture-wicking shirt (A sun shirt is ideal for this trip!) and lightweight hiking leggings/pants or shorts.
Insulating Layer: Fleece or lightweight puffy jacket for cool mornings and evenings.
Outer Layer: Waterproof jacket or rain shell (even if rain is unlikely—Murphy’s Law!).
Hiking Pants/Shorts: Lightweight, quick-drying options. I particularly love the Stio Pinedale pants.
Underwear & Socks: 2–3 pairs of hiking socks and quick-dry underwear. I always pack more socks than I think I’ll need.
Hat & Buff: Sun protection and warmth for cooler weather. I’m partial to the Cotopaxi 5 tech panel hat.
Sleepwear: Lightweight and comfortable for overnight. My favorite sleep set is the Merino set from REI.
Sturdy Hiking Boots or Trail Runners: Well-broken-in footwear is a must! If your weather is dry, I would err on the side of Trail Runners to keep you light footed and cool.
Camping Gear
Tent or Shelter: Lightweight, durable, and suited for Catalina’s windy conditions like the Big Agnes Copper Spur.
Sleeping Bag: Lightweight, 3-season bag. I’m a big fan of the Nemo Disco sleeping bag.
Sleeping Pad: Compact and comfortable for restful nights.
Headlamp: With extra batteries for early mornings or late-night use.
Cooking & Water
Stove and Fuel: Lightweight backpacking stove for simple meals.
Cookware: Small pot, spork, and lightweight cup.
Food: High-calorie, lightweight meals like dehydrated options, trail mix, jerky, and energy bars. Plan for 2–3 meals/day + snacks.
Water Reservoir/Bottle: At least 3L capacity.
Water Filter or Purification Tablets: Reliable water sources are limited, so check ahead for availability. You most likely won’t filter or need to purify your water but I always carry these items as a safety precaution. I have a Sawyer / Hydropak combo system that has always worked great.
Toiletries & First Aid
Toothbrush/Toothpaste: Travel-sized.
Sunscreen & Lip Balm: High SPF for intense sun exposure.
Bug Spray: Depending on the season.
Small First Aid Kit: Include blister care, pain relievers, and any personal medications.
Quick-Dry Towel: Compact for wiping down or cleaning up.
Toilet Kit: Trowel, biodegradable toilet paper, and zippered bags for packing out waste. There are plenty of bathrooms along this trail, but always good in case of emergency.
Extras
Lightweight Daypack: For side trips or exploring campsites.
Camera or Phone: To capture stunning island views.
Charging Bank: For electronics if needed.
Trekking Poles: Helpful for Catalina’s steep ascents and descents.
Camp Shoes: Lightweight sandals or slip-ons for relaxing at camp.
Trash Bags: Pack out all trash! Luckily there are some trash cans along the route, so you should be able to throw things away as you make your way along the trail.
Reading Materials: Kindle or lightweight book. Because I was alone on this trip, it was nice to have my Kindle, especially when I was camped at Shark Harbor.
Sample Itineraries
Here are three sample itineraries for hiking the Trans-Catalina Trail (TCT), depending on your pace and preferences. All itineraries assume you start in Avalon and end in Parsons Landing.
*My personal itinerary does not include ending in Parsons Landing
1. Standard 3-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Avalon to Black Jack Campground (11.5 miles)
Highlights: Start at Hermit Gulch, enjoy coastal views and challenging climbs.
Camp: Black Jack Campground (remote and peaceful).
Day 2: Black Jack to Two Harbors (14 miles)
Highlights: Descend through rolling hills to Little Harbor for lunch or a break.
Camp: Two Harbors Campground (near amenities like showers and a general store).
Day 3: Two Harbors to Parsons Landing (13 miles)
Highlights: Steep climbs to the ridgeline with stunning ocean views, ending at Parsons Landing.
Bonus: Collect water and firewood ahead of time for your campfire.
2. Relaxed 4-Day Itinerary (*My itinerary sans Day 4)
Day 1: Avalon to Black Jack Campground (11.5 miles)
Same as the standard itinerary.
Day 2: Black Jack to Little Harbor (7 miles)
Highlights: Shorter day with time to relax at Little Harbor’s beautiful beach.
Camp: Little Harbor Campground (highly scenic and a great spot for a swim).
Day 3: Little Harbor to Two Harbors (5 miles)
Highlights: A short trek, leaving time to explore Two Harbors.
Camp: Two Harbors Campground.
Day 4: Two Harbors to Parsons Landing (13 miles)
Same as the standard itinerary.
3. Fast-Paced 2-Day Itinerary (Experienced Hikers)
Day 1: Avalon to Two Harbors (25.5 miles)
Highlights: A long, challenging day covering most of the TCT. Break for lunch at Little Harbor.
Camp: Two Harbors Campground.
Day 2: Two Harbors to Parsons Landing or Starlight Beach (13 miles)
Highlights: Climb to the ridgeline and descend to your final destination at Parsons Landing or Starlight Beach.
These itineraries can all be adjusted to fit your pace and interests while allowing you to experience the full beauty of the TCT! You can follow my journey below…
Day 01
Long Beach, Catalina Express > Avalon > Black Jack Campground (10.7 miles)
I started the trip off in a bit of a frantic state. I’m not sure what I was thinking (considering I planned this trip 4 months in advance) but leaving the booking of my ferry tickets last minute was a colossal error. The only available departure was at 6:30 AM from Long Beach, which wouldn’t have been terrible if they didn’t require passengers to arrive an hour early. Given my inability to function before 5 AM, I raced to the ferry, arriving at 6:20 AM, just as they were announcing the final boarding call.
My tardiness landed me an exterior seat facing inward – not ideal. The morning was frigid, and the open water amplified the chill. Recent storms had created a substantial swell, and despite the clear sky, the water was incredibly rough. While I’ve never been prone to seasickness, a post-30 year old affliction of vertigo and inner ear issues made this journey a trial. I managed to avoid disaster, but I definitely had a few moments of panic where I was sure I was going to spew.
Luckily, I made it to shore unscathed, and immediately headed for the bathrooms, where I took a moment to splash my face with water and collect myself. This was not how I wanted to start my first solo backpacking trip.
After taking a moment to myself, I set off to find the trail. To reach the official start, you'll need to make your way through the charming town of Avalon and head up toward Hermit Gulch Campground. The trailhead is located at the far end of the campground. The initial climb out of the canyon is steep and exposed—even on a 60ºF day, it felt more like 80ºF, and I found myself needing a few pep talks to keep going. I was also thanking myself at this point for having to take that 6:30am ferry, I couldn’t imagine hiking these steep switch backs any later in the afternoon.
Once I reached the top of the ridge I was rewarded with breathtaking views. Looking back toward the mainland, I could see all the way to the snow-capped San Gabriels—a well-deserved treat after the tough climb. I decided to take a substantial break here, hydrating with water and electrolytes and enjoying some snacks. There’s a bathroom not far up the trail, making this an ideal spot to recharge before continuing the journey. It was hard to believe I was only about a quarter of the way through my day.
Fortunately, the next three-quarters of the trail start to feel more rugged and truly reminiscent of a thru-hike. As you continue along this stretch, you'll finally reach the "official-official" start of the TCT, where you'll also pass through your first bison gate, evoking a scene straight out of Jurassic Park. From here, the trail begins its descent toward Haypress Reservoir. The path becomes rocky and uneven, demanding careful footing.
This section of the trail is more wooded, with groves of oak trees and coastal sagebrush providing intermittent shade. As you make your way deeper into the interior of the island, it’s nothing but rolling hills and canyons stretching out in every direction.
Haypress Reservoir itself is a peaceful spot. Apparently, it is often dry, but at the time I was there, there was plenty of water and it was surrounded by lush vegetation. Here you’ll find some picnic benches, a bathroom, some water spigots and even a playground. It’s a good place to rest and have lunch—which is exactly what I did.
It was hard to pull myself away from this relaxing spot. But I knew at this point, I still has about another 4.2 miles to camp, which seemed impossible considering how long of a day I had already had. After passing through Haypress, the trail climbs again, this time more gradually, as it heads off toward Divide Road. This section of trail is a mixture of single-track and wider fire roads.
As you ascend, the vistas open up, offering stunning views of the island’s interior and, at times, both the ocean and mainland. This portion of the trail is quite exposed, with little shade, so sun protection is essential.
The last stretch towards Black Jack Campground involves a mix of rolling hills and gradual inclines. The landscape is a blend of grassy hillsides and clusters of island oak and pine trees. It was some of the most beautiful landscape of the day, but it was definitely eclipsed by the fact that I was completely over hiking.
Black Jack Campground is nestled among the island's highlands, surrounded by trees and offering a sense of seclusion. When I arrived, the campground was fairly quiet, with just a few others settling in. The site offers fox boxes, bathrooms, and potable water, but at the time, the spigot at my campsite wasn't drinkable, so I had to get water from the central spigot instead.
I finished setting up camp around 5 p.m. and was eager to eat dinner and rest my tired feet. I was so exhausted that I retired to my tent by 6:30 p.m. and quickly fell asleep. Unfortunately, I was awakened around 8:30 p.m. by the sound of a group of young women arriving at the campsite next to mine. It was dark, and they seemed unaware that the surrounding sites had already turned in for the night. As I lay there listening to their conversations, I couldn't help but laugh, realizing that these girls were a mirror of me and my friends roughly 10 years ago—a bit of a mess, rolling into camp after dark without all the proper gear, but somehow making it work. I still desperately wanted them to shut up though…
At 5 a.m., I was awoken again by the sound of my neighbors giggling and packing up their camp. I couldn’t fathom what could be so amusing about waking up at 5 a.m. in the backcountry, but it was clear we were having very different backpacking experiences. As I lay there, I felt a sudden pang in my abdomen. In the darkness, it all started to make sense—my grumpiness, my exhaustion—I had started my period. Was I expecting it or prepared? Of course not.
So, I decided to give myself some grace and slept in a bit longer than planned. Mornings on the trail are usually my favorite, but this one was tough. I won't lie—I was feeling lonely and defeated. I needed a good cry and a pep talk with myself to pull it together and get back on the trail. Thankfully, I knew that in just a mile and a half, I could take a break at the Airport, where they had flush toilets and a general store. I was hoping to pick up some supplies and turn the entire trajectory of my day around.
Day 02
Black Jack Campground > Shark Harbor (7.5 miles)
Leaving Black Jack Campground, you start by heading west, continuing along the TCT. The trail gradually ascends, and you’ll notice the landscape shifting as you gain elevation. The trail here is a mix of single-track paths and wider fire roads. There are some occasional rocky sections and rolling hills that offer a good challenge but are manageable for most hikers.
Roughly 1.5 miles from Black Jack Campground, you’ll reach the Catalina Island Conservancy’s Airport in the Sky. This is a popular stop for hikers as it offers amenities like flush toilets, a general store, and a small café where you can grab a snack or refill your water. I was so looking forward to purchasing some feminine products and a hot meal here. Unfortunately, despite the general store being stocked with Catalina Island swag, USB lighters, cookware, stuffed animals, and more, they only had two individually wrapped feminine pads on a shelf for purchase—it was the strangest thing I’d ever seen. But I wasn’t about to complain.
I headed to the restaurant and ordered a burger and fries, along with a Dr. Pepper the size of my head. I was definitely in a "treat yourself" mindset. Whether the burger was actually delicious, or I was just incredibly hungry, is hard to say, but either way, I 100% recommend stopping here if you're passing through. It's the perfect spot to rest, chat with other thru-hikers, and even charge your devices if needed.
Having this little detour on my trip changed my whole day around. From Airport in the Sky to my campsite at Shark Harbor it’s another 6 miles and change. After leaving the airport, the trail begins a long descent toward Little Harbor. This section is quite scenic, with the path winding down through grassy hillsides and coastal sage scrub.
As you descend, the landscape becomes more coastal, with the vegetation shifting to include more chaparral, cacti, and succulent plants. The views of the ocean become more prominent, and you’ll start to see glimpses of Little Harbor and Shark Harbor in the distance.
After descending, you’ll reach Little Harbor, one of the most picturesque spots on the island, and I would say maybe one of the most beautiful campsites in the United States. Little Harbor is a small, crescent-shaped bay with clear turquoise waters, sandy beaches, and rocky outcrops. Little Harbor Campground offers picnic tables, fire pits, and bathrooms. If you’re not staying overnight, it’s a great place to take a longer break, have lunch, or even set up camp if you’re staying the night.
From Little Harbor, there is still a bit of a hike to get over to the more isolated Shark Harbor. You can either take the fire road, or follow the trail through the Little Harbor campground over the ridge to the other side.
I chose to stay on Shark Harbor because compared to Little Harbor it’s a bit more remote and less crowded, offering a more peaceful retreat. The campground is relatively primitive, with fewer amenities than some of the other campgrounds on the island. At the time, there was potable water at at the campsite on the right side facing the ocean.
Here, I spent the late afternoon enjoying the ocean and cooking dinner next to my cozy little campfire. After a hardy meal while the sun set on the horizon I was finally ready for bed. This was one of my best nights sleeping on trail. The sound of the crashing waves and the frogs croaking in the distance was the most peaceful way to fall asleep.
Day 03
Shark Harbor > Two Harbors > Catalina Express back to San Pedro (5.2 miles)
If you think falling asleep in Shark Harbor is peaceful, waking up there is next level. The morning was so calm and quiet with a soft marine layer hovering above the shoreline. This was my last day on trail, and as much as I wanted to linger at Shark Harbor, I had a 12pm ferry to catch in Two Harbors, so I made a quick breakfast of a granola bar and coffee, packed up my things and headed on my way.
The trail between Shark Harbor and Two Harbors covers approximately 5.2 miles and takes about 2.5 to 3 hours to hike, depending on pace and breaks. Starting at Shark Harbor / Little Harbor the trail begins with a steady ascent. Be sure to fill up with plenty of water, as this section of the trail is mostly exposed and there are no water sources. This climb leads to a ridge offering breathtaking views of the rugged island terrain and the expansive ocean, making it a perfect spot for photos and a short rest.
As the midpoint of the trail approaches you get treated to sweeping vistas of Isthmus Cove and the surrounding waters. After enjoying the views, the trail descends gently toward Two Harbors, winding through grassy hills with intermittent shade. After a long slog uphill I was super happy to be descending for the last mile before dropping into the charming settlement of Two Harbors.
A lot of you will either spend the night here in Two Harbors and continue your adventure to Parson’s Landing or simply continue on to Parson’s Landing and camp there for one more night. I unfortunately was unable to finalize this part of the trail, but it still felt like quite the accomplishment. Maybe one day I’ll be back and “technically” finish by doing a little camping trip to Parson’s Landing.
Once in Two Harbors, if you have time, you can take advantage of the amenities, including water refills, snacks, and a café or restaurant. It's a great place to relax, explore the beach, or prepare for the next section of the trail. I, unfortunately, reached town with just 15 minutes to spare, so I didn’t have much time to explore.
It was hard to believe my first solo backpacking trip was coming to an end. As I boarded the ferry in Two Harbors, I felt a whirlwind of emotions. Pride and happiness—I had accomplished something super meaningful. But, as with many of my solo adventures, there was a lingering tinge of loneliness, wishing I had someone to share the journey with. Even so, I couldn’t wait for the ferry to dock in San Pedro so I could reunite with my hubby and pup, indulge in a hot shower, and start planning the next adventure.
Are you planning a backpacking trip on the Trans-Catalina Trail? Comment below and let me know if you have any questions!
